Indonesia is thousands of islands, not one cuisine, and this list tries to actually show that instead of flattening it into "Indonesian food" the way a single buffet tray often does. A dish from Aceh in the far northwest has almost nothing in common with one from Papua in the far east, and that is the point, not an inconsistency.

Here are 20 dishes that span that range, from a four-hour beef rendang to a small rice ball you eat in one bite. Every one links to the full recipe, and every regional attribution here reflects where the dish actually comes from.

1. Rendang Daging, Minangkabau, West Sumatra

Rendang Daging, a dish from Minangkabau, West Sumatra

Beef simmered for hours in coconut milk and spice paste until the sauce reduces to an almost-dry, dark coating. Minangkabau's most famous export, and worth the time it takes.

Recipe: Beef, coconut milk and a shallot-chili-galangal paste, simmered for hours until dark and thick.

Get the full recipe: Rendang Daging.

2. Nasi Goreng Kampung, Across Indonesia

Nasi Goreng Kampung, a dish from Across Indonesia

Day-old rice, fried hard with shallots, garlic, chili and kecap manis, topped with a fried egg and crunchy crackers. The homestyle version Indonesians actually cook at home.

Recipe: Day-old rice, shallots, garlic, chili and kecap manis, topped with a fried egg.

Get the full recipe: Nasi Goreng Kampung.

3. Sate Ayam Madura, Madura, East Java

Sate Ayam Madura, a dish from Madura, East Java

Chicken marinated in turmeric and lemongrass, grilled hard over charcoal and glazed with sweet soy, served with a rich coconut peanut sauce and lontong. Madura's take on a dish found all over the archipelago.

Recipe: Turmeric-lemongrass chicken skewers, grilled over charcoal, with peanut sauce and rice cakes.

Get the full recipe: Sate Ayam Madura.

4. Gado-Gado, Jakarta and across Indonesia

Gado-Gado, a dish from Jakarta and across Indonesia

Blanched vegetables, fried tofu and tempeh, and boiled egg, all pulled together under a thick, sweet-savory peanut sauce. Indonesia's most famous salad, and nothing like a Western one.

Recipe: Blanched vegetables, tofu, tempeh and egg, dressed in peanut sauce.

Get the full recipe: Gado-Gado.

5. Soto Ayam Lamongan, Lamongan, East Java

Soto Ayam Lamongan, a dish from Lamongan, East Java

A turmeric chicken broth with shredded chicken, glass noodles and egg, finished with koya, a crunchy powder of fried garlic and crushed prawn crackers. The detail that makes this soto its own dish.

Recipe: Turmeric chicken broth, glass noodles and egg, topped with koya.

Get the full recipe: Soto Ayam Lamongan.

6. Bakso Sapi, Across Indonesia

Bakso Sapi, a dish from Across Indonesia

Springy beef meatballs, poached until bouncy, served in a clear broth with noodles and greens. A street-cart staple you will find on almost every corner in Indonesia.

Recipe: Beef and tapioca meatballs, poached, served in clear broth with noodles and greens.

Get the full recipe: Bakso Sapi.

7. Rawon Surabaya, Surabaya, East Java

Rawon Surabaya, a dish from Surabaya, East Java

Beef simmered in a broth turned nearly black by kluwek nuts, served with crunchy short bean sprouts, rice and sambal. Surabaya's dark, earthy answer to beef soup.

Recipe: Beef, kluwek nut paste and spices, simmered into a deep black broth.

Get the full recipe: Rawon Surabaya.

8. Gudeg Jogja, Yogyakarta

Gudeg Jogja, a dish from Yogyakarta

Young jackfruit simmered for hours in coconut milk and palm sugar until dark, sweet and falling apart, served with a braised egg and spicy krecek on the side. Yogyakarta's patient, sweet specialty.

Recipe: Young jackfruit, coconut milk and palm sugar, simmered for hours, served with egg and spicy krecek.

Get the full recipe: Gudeg Jogja.

9. Pempek Palembang, Palembang, South Sumatra

Pempek Palembang, a dish from Palembang, South Sumatra

Chewy fish and tapioca cakes, some stuffed with a whole egg, poached then fried and served with a dark, sharply sour-sweet dipping sauce. Palembang's best-known export.

Recipe: Ground fish and tapioca dough, poached and fried, served with sour-sweet cuko sauce.

Get the full recipe: Pempek Palembang.

10. Mie Aceh Goreng, Aceh

Mie Aceh Goreng, a dish from Aceh

Thick yellow noodles fried in a curry-leaning spice paste with beef or prawns, served with pickled shallots and lime. Aceh's distinct spice influence, in noodle form.

Recipe: Thick noodles, beef or prawns, and a fragrant curry-spiced paste, served with pickled shallots.

Get the full recipe: Mie Aceh Goreng.

11. Babi Guling, Bali

Babi Guling, a dish from Bali

A whole suckling pig, stuffed with a thick Balinese spice paste and roasted slowly until the skin turns deeply crisp. Bali's ceremonial centerpiece, and a genuine undertaking to make.

Recipe: Whole suckling pig, stuffed with Balinese spice paste, roasted low and slow with a hot finish.

Get the full recipe: Babi Guling.

12. Ayam Betutu, Bali

Ayam Betutu, a dish from Bali

A whole chicken, packed with Balinese spice paste under the skin and inside the cavity, wrapped and cooked low and slow until it falls off the bone. Deceptively simple-looking, deeply flavored.

Recipe: Whole chicken, stuffed with Balinese spice paste, wrapped and slow-cooked until tender.

Get the full recipe: Ayam Betutu.

13. Sate Lilit Ikan, Bali

Sate Lilit Ikan, a dish from Bali

Minced fish mixed with grated coconut and Balinese spice, molded by hand around lemongrass stalks and grilled over charcoal. Nothing like a typical skewered satay.

Recipe: Minced fish, grated coconut and spice paste, molded around lemongrass, grilled.

Get the full recipe: Sate Lilit Ikan.

14. Ayam Taliwang, Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara

Ayam Taliwang, a dish from Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara

Grilled chicken coated in a fiery chili and shrimp-paste glaze, served with plecing kangkung, water spinach dressed in a bright, raw sambal. One of Lombok's spiciest exports.

Recipe: Grilled chicken, coated in a chili and shrimp-paste sauce, served with chili-dressed water spinach.

Get the full recipe: Ayam Taliwang.

15. Coto Makassar, Makassar, South Sulawesi

Coto Makassar, a dish from Makassar, South Sulawesi

Beef and offal simmered for hours in a spiced broth thickened with ground peanuts, served with pressed rice cakes instead of plain rice. South Sulawesi's rich, deep soup.

Recipe: Beef, offal and ground peanuts in a long-simmered spiced broth, served with ketupat.

Get the full recipe: Coto Makassar.

16. Tinutuan, Manado, North Sulawesi

Tinutuan, a dish from Manado, North Sulawesi

A thick rice porridge where pumpkin, corn and leafy greens outnumber the rice, served with sambal and salted fish on the side. Manado's vegetable-forward comfort food.

Recipe: Rice, pumpkin, sweet potato, corn and greens, simmered into a thick porridge.

Get the full recipe: Tinutuan.

17. Papeda dengan Ikan Kuah Kuning, Papua and Maluku

Papeda dengan Ikan Kuah Kuning, a dish from Papua and Maluku

Sago starch, turned into a thick, sticky gel in under a minute, eaten alongside fish in a bright turmeric broth. The everyday staple of Papua and Maluku, where rice is not the default.

Recipe: Sago starch porridge, served with fish in a turmeric, ginger and lime broth.

Get the full recipe: Papeda dengan Ikan Kuah Kuning.

18. Nasi Uduk Betawi, Jakarta

Nasi Uduk Betawi, a dish from Jakarta

Coconut rice scented with pandan and lemongrass, served with fried tempeh, shredded omelette and sambal. The everyday rice plate of Jakarta's Betawi community.

Recipe: Coconut and pandan rice, served with fried tempeh, shredded omelette and sambal.

Get the full recipe: Nasi Uduk Betawi.

19. Martabak Manis, Across Indonesia

Martabak Manis, a dish from Across Indonesia

A thick, yeasted pancake griddled until its surface bubbles into a honeycomb of holes, folded around chocolate sprinkles, peanuts and condensed milk. Indonesia's favorite street dessert.

Recipe: A thick, yeasted pancake, griddled until honeycombed, filled with chocolate, peanuts and condensed milk.

Get the full recipe: Martabak Manis.

20. Klepon, Java and across Indonesia

Klepon, a dish from Java and across Indonesia

Small green rice balls, each hiding a center of molten palm sugar, rolled in fresh grated coconut. A bite-sized dessert built entirely around one good surprise.

Recipe: Glutinous rice dough wrapped around palm sugar, boiled, and rolled in grated coconut.

Get the full recipe: Klepon.

good to have in the kitchen

A handful of things come up again and again across this list. None are strictly required, but they make the difference between a good version and the real one.

A candlenuts, the thickener behind nearly every spice paste on this list, from rendang to coto Makassar.

A shrimp paste (terasi), the savory backbone of sambal and half the spice pastes here. A little goes a long way.

A palm sugar, for gudeg, klepon and the sweet side of Indonesian cooking generally.

A pandan leaves, for the rice dishes and klepon. Frozen works as well as fresh.

A mortar and pestle, still the best tool for a proper spice paste, even with a blender on the counter.

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