Bangladeshi food gets overshadowed by its larger neighbors or flattened into just biryani, but it has its own distinct cooking traditions: a hilsa fish season built around one specific cut of mustard, a Chattogram style of beef cooked down until the masala turns nearly black, and a whole category of mashed, raw-mustard-oil bhorta that doesn't resemble a curry at all.

Here are 20 dishes that cover that range, from a sealed-pot biryani to a street-stall tamarind snack to a yogurt set the traditional way in clay. Every one links to the full recipe, with the technique that actually makes it work.

1. Kacchi Biryani, Old Dhaka

Kacchi Biryani, a dish from Old Dhaka

Marinated raw mutton layered with fragrant rice and potatoes, sealed and slow-cooked together.

Recipe: Raw marinated mutton and basmati rice, layered and cooked together in a sealed pot.

Get the full recipe: Kacchi Biryani.

2. Morog Polao, Dhaka and festive meals

Morog Polao, a dish from Dhaka and festive meals

Aromatic rice cooked with richly spiced chicken, yogurt, ghee and a generous hand of whole spices.

Recipe: Chicken and rice cooked together with ghee, whole spices and fried onions.

Get the full recipe: Morog Polao.

3. Bhuna Khichuri, Across Bangladesh

Bhuna Khichuri, a dish from Across Bangladesh

Rice and lentils cooked down with spices into a rich, relatively dry khichuri.

Recipe: Rice and dal cooked together with spiced ghee into a thick, fragrant khichuri.

Get the full recipe: Bhuna Khichuri.

4. Shorshe Ilish, Across Bangladesh

Shorshe Ilish, a dish from Across Bangladesh

Hilsa fish gently cooked in a pungent mustard sauce with green chillies and mustard oil.

Recipe: Hilsa simmered gently in a fresh mustard-seed paste and mustard oil.

Get the full recipe: Shorshe Ilish.

5. Ilish Pulao, Celebrations and home cooking

Ilish Pulao, a dish from Celebrations and home cooking

Fragrant rice cooked with hilsa, letting the fish's flavour infuse every grain.

Recipe: Hilsa nestled into spiced rice and steamed together until the grains take on its flavor.

Get the full recipe: Ilish Pulao.

6. Chingri Malai Curry, Bengali cooking

Chingri Malai Curry, a dish from Bengali cooking

Large prawns cooked in a creamy coconut-milk sauce with gentle whole spices.

Recipe: Seared prawns simmered gently in a spiced coconut-milk sauce.

Get the full recipe: Chingri Malai Curry.

7. Chitol Macher Muitha, Traditional Bengali households

Chitol Macher Muitha, a dish from Traditional Bengali households

Dumplings made from deboned clown knifefish, simmered in a spiced potato gravy.

Recipe: Fish dumplings fried, then simmered in a spiced potato and tomato gravy.

Get the full recipe: Chitol Macher Muitha.

8. Mezban Beef, Chattogram

Mezban Beef, a dish from Chattogram

A deeply spiced beef curry from Chattogram, traditionally cooked for communal feasts.

Recipe: Beef simmered low and slow in a heavily spiced, dark Chattogram-style gravy.

Get the full recipe: Mezban Beef.

9. Kala Bhuna, Chattogram

Kala Bhuna, a dish from Chattogram

Beef slowly cooked with onions and spices until intensely dark, coated in reduced masala.

Recipe: Beef cooked low and slow until the masala reduces to a near-black, clinging coat.

Get the full recipe: Kala Bhuna.

10. Beef Tehari, Especially Old Dhaka

Beef Tehari, a dish from Especially Old Dhaka

Small pieces of beef cooked with aromatic rice, mustard oil and green chillies.

Recipe: Beef partly cooked, then finished together with rice in mustard oil and whole spices.

Get the full recipe: Beef Tehari.

11. Shutki Bhuna, Coastal regions and Sylhet

Shutki Bhuna, a dish from Coastal regions and Sylhet

Dried fish cooked down with onions, garlic and chilli into an intensely savoury dish.

Recipe: Dried fish fried, then cooked down hard with onion, garlic and chile.

Get the full recipe: Shutki Bhuna.

12. Bhorta Platter, Across Bangladesh

Bhorta Platter, a dish from Across Bangladesh

A selection of mashes, potato, roasted aubergine and lentil, seasoned sharp with mustard oil.

Recipe: Potato, roasted aubergine and lentil, each mashed and seasoned with mustard oil and chile.

Get the full recipe: Bhorta Platter.

13. Panta Bhat with Accompaniments, Rural food traditions and Pohela Boishakh

Panta Bhat with Accompaniments, a dish from Rural food traditions and Pohela Boishakh

Cooked rice soaked in water overnight, served with bhorta, onion, green chillies and fried fish.

Recipe: Leftover rice soaked overnight in water, served with bhorta and fried fish.

Get the full recipe: Panta Bhat with Accompaniments.

14. Fuchka, Street stalls across Bangladesh

Fuchka, a dish from Street stalls across Bangladesh

Crisp hollow shells filled with spiced potato and chickpeas, served with tangy tamarind water.

Recipe: Crisp shells filled with spiced potato and chickpeas, dipped in tamarind water.

Get the full recipe: Fuchka.

15. Chotpoti, Street stalls across Bangladesh

Chotpoti, a dish from Street stalls across Bangladesh

A tangy, spicy dish of peas and potatoes with tamarind, onion, chilli and boiled egg.

Recipe: Boiled white peas and potato in a tangy tamarind sauce, topped with egg.

Get the full recipe: Chotpoti.

16. Mughlai Paratha, Dhaka and urban eateries

Mughlai Paratha, a dish from Dhaka and urban eateries

A folded, shallow-fried flatbread filled with egg, minced meat, onions and green chillies.

Recipe: Flatbread folded around beaten egg and spiced mince, then shallow-fried until crisp.

Get the full recipe: Mughlai Paratha.

17. Bhapa Pitha, Winter food traditions

Bhapa Pitha, a dish from Winter food traditions

Steamed rice-flour cakes filled with coconut and date-palm jaggery, melting inside as they cook.

Recipe: Rice flour pressed around a coconut-jaggery filling, then steamed until set.

Get the full recipe: Bhapa Pitha.

18. Patishapta Pitha, Winter celebrations and home cooking

Patishapta Pitha, a dish from Winter celebrations and home cooking

Thin crêpes rolled around a sweet coconut-and-jaggery or thickened-milk filling.

Recipe: Thin rice-flour crêpes rolled around a coconut-jaggery filling.

Get the full recipe: Patishapta Pitha.

19. Chomchom, Porabari, Tangail

Chomchom, a dish from Porabari, Tangail

Oblong chhana-based sweets cooked in syrup, often finished with milk solids.

Recipe: Fresh milk curds kneaded smooth, shaped, and boiled in cardamom syrup.

Get the full recipe: Chomchom.

20. Bogurar Doi, Bogura

Bogurar Doi, a dish from Bogura

Rich, sweet yogurt traditionally set in earthenware pots, with a creamy, caramel-toned surface.

Recipe: Milk reduced, lightly caramelized, and cultured into thick, sweet yogurt.

Get the full recipe: Bogurar Doi.

good to have in the kitchen

A handful of things come up again and again across this list. None are strictly required, but they make the difference between a good version and the real one.

A a heavy-bottomed dutch oven, what kacchi biryani, morog polao and beef tehari all need for a proper sealed dum cook.

A mustard oil, the sharp, pungent oil behind shorshe ilish, shutki bhuna and most of this list’s everyday cooking.

A a flat-bottomed karai pan, the right shape for gently simmering a whole fish in mustard sauce without breaking it apart.

A a cast iron tawa griddle, what a proper shallow-fried mughlai paratha needs underneath it.

A small earthenware pots, the traditional vessel for setting Bogurar doi, which genuinely changes the texture.

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