andrejthechef
PeruBreadBreakfast

Tamal Criollo con Salsa Criolla

Peruvian tamal criollo: yellow corn masa with ají amarillo, filled with pork, boiled egg and olive, steamed in banana leaves and served with salsa criolla.

prep
1 h
cook
2 h 20 min
total
3 h 20 min
serves
8
level
hard
Peruvian tamal criollo unwrapped on a banana leaf, cut open to show shredded pork, a slice of boiled egg and a black olive, with red onion salsa criolla beside it

The tamal criollo is a Peruvian weekend breakfast, bought warm from a street vendor or a bakery, often with a roll of bread and a cup of coffee. The masa is made from yellow corn and colored and seasoned with ají amarillo paste, then wrapped around a spoonful of pork, a slice of boiled egg and a black olive. The banana leaf wrapping scents the masa while it steams.

The masa is cooked before it is wrapped: you stir it over heat with lard and ají paste until it thickens, which gives a smooth, set texture instead of a crumbly one. Peruvian cooks use ground dried yellow corn; masa harina is the closest ingredient most US cooks can find, and it works well here. The pork should be tender and juicy, and the tamal needs a full hour of steady steaming.

Tamal Criollo con Salsa Criolla is one of the best breakfasts from around the world.

method

  1. Season the pork with the garlic, cumin, 1 tablespoon ají amarillo paste and 1 teaspoon salt. Brown it in 2 tablespoons of the lard in a heavy pot over medium-high heat, then add the onion and a splash of water. Cover and cook over low heat for 45 to 60 minutes until the pork shreds easily.

  2. Shred the pork coarsely with two forks and stir it back into the pot juices. Taste and adjust the salt. Keep the juices, because you will use them in the masa.

  3. Soften the banana leaves by passing each one over a gas flame or dipping it in very hot water for a few seconds until it turns glossy and pliable. Wipe dry and cut into 30 cm (12 in) squares, trimming off the hard central rib.

  4. For the masa, melt the remaining lard in a wide pot with the 4 tablespoons of ají paste and stir for 2 minutes. Add the masa harina, then gradually pour in the warm stock, stirring constantly. Cook over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes until it is thick like soft polenta and pulls away from the sides. Season with the remaining salt and let it cool until you can handle it.

  5. Lay a leaf on the counter, shiny side up. Spread about 1/2 cup masa into a rectangle in the center. Place a heaping spoonful of pork, a slice of egg and an olive on top, then cover with another 1/4 cup masa. Fold the leaf over the filling like a parcel, tuck the ends under and tie with twine.

  6. Set a rack in a large pot with 3 cm (1 in) of water. Stand or stack the tamales on the rack, cover and steam over medium-low heat for 60 to 75 minutes. Top up with boiling water when needed. The masa is done when it is firm and releases cleanly from the leaf.

  7. Meanwhile, soak the sliced red onion in ice water for 10 minutes, drain, and toss with the lime juice, cilantro and a pinch of salt. Rest the tamales for 10 minutes, then unwrap and serve each one on its leaf with the salsa criolla.

chef's tips

  • Tamales keep in the fridge for 4 days and freeze well. Reheat them still wrapped, steamed for 15 to 20 minutes.
  • Peruvian tamales often include a roasted peanut or two in the filling. Add one if you like the extra crunch.
  • Keep the masa warm while you wrap. As it cools it stiffens, and it spreads best when it is still pliable.
  • If the water level in the steamer drops, add boiling water, not cold. Cold water stops the steaming and can leave the masa dense.