andrejthechef
ItalyDessertBreakfastVegetarian

Granita e Brioche col Tuppo

A Sicilian summer breakfast: lemon granita scraped by hand into fine crystals, served with a soft, buttery brioche col tuppo to tear, dunk and eat with a spoon.

prep
5 h 30 min
cook
20 min
total
5 h 50 min
serves
8
level
medium
A glass cup of pale, fine-grained lemon granita next to a round golden brioche with a small ball of dough on top, on a wooden table with a spoon.

Granita with brioche is the classic summer breakfast in Sicily, especially around Catania and Messina. The brioche col tuppo is a soft, eggy, lightly sweet bun topped with a small ball of dough, the tuppo. Sicilian granita is finer and creamier than coarse shaved ice, and comes in flavors from lemon and almond to coffee and mulberry. People tear off pieces of bun and dunk them, or split the bun and fill it with granita.

Two techniques matter. For the granita, scrape the freezing mixture with a fork every 30 minutes or so to break up the crystals into a fine, snowy texture. For the brioche, knead until the dough passes the windowpane test, adding the butter a little at a time, then give it a slow, warm proof.

If you like Italian frozen desserts, try our gelato al pistacchio as well.

Granita e Brioche col Tuppo is one of the best breakfasts from around the world.

method

  1. Start the granita: warm the water, 150 g sugar and the pinch of salt until the sugar dissolves, then cool completely. Stir in the lemon juice and pour into a shallow metal pan so it is 2 to 3 cm (1 in) deep. Put it in the freezer.

  2. For the brioche, mix the flour, 80 g sugar, 9 g salt and yeast in a stand mixer. Add 2 of the eggs, the 170 ml milk, vanilla and zest, and knead with the dough hook on low for 3 minutes, then on medium for about 8 minutes until the dough is smooth.

  3. Add the butter a few cubes at a time, letting each piece disappear before the next, then knead 8 to 10 more minutes until the dough is silky, pulls away from the bowl and stretches thin without tearing. It will be soft.

  4. Cover and let the dough rise at warm room temperature for 1.5 to 2 hours, until doubled. While it rises, scrape the granita with a fork every 30 minutes, breaking up the crystals, about 4 to 5 times in all.

  5. Divide the dough into 8 pieces of about 120 g. Pinch 20 g off each for the tuppo. Shape the large pieces into tight balls and set them on parchment-lined trays, 6 cm (2.5 in) apart. Press a shallow hole in the top of each with your thumb, dab with water and press a small ball into it.

  6. Cover and proof 60 to 90 minutes until puffy and nearly doubled. Heat the oven to 180°C (350°F).

  7. Brush with the egg and milk wash and bake 18 to 20 minutes until deep golden. Cool 10 minutes, so the crumb sets and stays soft.

  8. Scrape the finished granita one last time and spoon it into chilled glasses. Serve with a warm brioche and a spoon: tear, dunk, and eat.

chef's tips

  • For an even finer, creamier texture, break the fully frozen granita into chunks and pulse it briefly in a food processor just before serving.
  • For almond granita, the other Sicilian favorite, replace the water and lemon juice with almond milk and a splash of almond extract.
  • The brioche freezes well: freeze baked and cooled, then warm 5 minutes at 160°C (325°F).