andrejthechef
GreeceDessertBreakfastVegetarian

Bougatsa me Krema

Greek bougatsa with semolina custard: buttered phyllo baked until crisp around a thick vanilla filling, cut into squares and dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon.

prep
50 min
cook
45 min
total
1 h 35 min
serves
8
level
medium
Squares of golden phyllo bougatsa cut open to show thick vanilla semolina custard, dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon on a white plate

Bougatsa me krema is a custard pie of crisp, buttered phyllo around a thick semolina filling, cut into squares and dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon. It is a bakery breakfast in northern Greece, especially around Thessaloniki, and it is eaten warm with coffee. Versions filled with cheese (tyri) or spiced minced meat are sold too, but the custard one is what most people mean by plain "bougatsa".

The custard decides whether this works. Cook the semolina in milk until it is thick enough to hold a spoon upright, then cool it to lukewarm so it does not turn the pastry soggy. The bakeries pull the dough by hand; at home, store-bought phyllo gives a very good result as long as every sheet is brushed generously with butter.

Bougatsa me Krema is one of the best breakfasts from around the world.

method

  1. Make the custard: heat the milk, sugar and salt in a large saucepan over medium heat until steaming. Rain in the semolina while whisking constantly, then cook over medium-low for 5 to 8 minutes, whisking, until it is thick enough to hold a spoon upright.

  2. Take the pan off the heat and whisk in the 40 g butter and the vanilla. Beat the eggs in a small bowl, whisk in a ladle of the hot custard, then stir that back into the pan and cook 1 minute over low heat. Press plastic wrap onto the surface and let the custard cool to lukewarm, about 30 minutes.

  3. Heat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Brush a 23 x 33 cm (9 x 13 inch) baking dish with melted butter. Keep the phyllo under a damp kitchen towel while you work so it does not dry out.

  4. Lay 6 sheets in the dish one at a time, brushing each generously with butter and letting the edges overhang. Spread the lukewarm custard evenly over them and fold the overhanging edges in over the custard.

  5. Top with the remaining 6 sheets, brushing each with butter and crumpling them slightly so the top is ruffled. Brush the top with the last of the butter and tuck the edges down the sides.

  6. With a sharp knife, score the top layers into 8 to 10 squares, cutting about halfway down. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the top is deep golden and crisp and the custard is set.

  7. Let the pie rest 10 minutes, then cut through along the scored lines with a sharp serrated knife or kitchen shears. Dust generously with powdered sugar and cinnamon and serve warm.

chef's tips

  • The custard can be made a day ahead and kept in the fridge with plastic wrap on its surface. Beat it smooth and let it come to lukewarm before spreading.
  • Use fine semolina, not coarse. Coarse semolina leaves the custard gritty.
  • Best the day it is baked. To reheat leftovers, give them 10 minutes at 160°C (320°F) to bring the crunch back; the microwave makes the phyllo chewy.
  • Keep unused phyllo covered with a damp towel at all times. Dry sheets crack and crumble when you try to fold them.